The other style invites the twist into the fiber, it lets the twist zip into the fiber with little to no control; twist is just tossed at the fiber. Very well spot on! The woolen singles were a little thicker and less consistent, so this isn't surprising. When this "worsted spun" yarn is woven it produces fabric with these qualities unlike the more common woolen-spun wool yarns available to handweavers. To produce our heathered colors, the scoured fleece is then dyed in a range of intensely saturated base solids, which are then blended together during the spinning process using percentages of the base colors unique to each colorway. Generally, the higher the ply number the thicker the yarn. July 2018 Spinning February 2021 Woolen yarn is dense and is often made from the shorter strands of a sheep's fleece. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. Thank you for this insightful article. 4.5 sts / inch on size US 8. 'Carding' is one of the processes which untangles the woo. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. You cracked the egg for me.I want to read more of your writing. (using carded fibers). In relation to the thinner 1ply yarns Woollen Spun has a crisper feel, whereas the Worsted Spun has more drape and softness. The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Analytics". March 2020 Even taking in account the difference of color and fiber blend, they are two different yarns. This page is a godsend . Id assumed it was me, but now I wonder if its my yarn? Your email address will not be published. www.brooklyntweed.com, Content: 100% Clun Forest wool Put-Up: 185yd [169 m]/3.8 oz [107 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash with low agitation; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 18 sts = 4 (10 cm) on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles, Solitude Wool hand-picks its fleece from small U.S. farms and then has yarn spun at different mills around the country. There are all sorts of reasons you might want to use a yarn thats different from what the designer recommends. I couldnt find it and couldnt afford it on my student budget, anyway, so I decided to substitute. Its more precise than the yarns weight category of fingering, DK, bulky, etc. Really, it's totally personal preference. My question is how does one know whether a Yarn is worsted or woolen spun if one is not sophisticated enough to know just by looking? December 2022 Worsted Spun vs. Woolen Spun. Rudy Amann was mentored in handspinning by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts. So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? Bonus points for great pictures to make everything visual and extra clear. These are actually a scaled down version of the historical combs, but having handled a pair I can tell you that they're still seriously heavy to handle. Great article, thank you for this very detailed account , I learned so much ! The yarn is less hairy than worsted yarns. Its an old method too and goes well with fiber that has been prepared for spinning by hand. Woolen yarn is less durable as compared to worsted yarn which may last longer. August 2022 All Rights Reserved. April 2014 From that basis it's pretty much impossible to create a woolen yarn, which relies on trapping hairs perpendicular to the direction of the yarn now I understand, thank youu. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. December 2014 Thanks for sharing. Jill, I am a newbie to crochet and knitting, so this information is wonderful! Check out our worsted spun wool selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. Other linen yarns are wet spun linen and dry spun linen. Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. This yarn delivers on every account. Please allow a few minutes for this process to complete. If you compare those to the recommended yarns details, youll have a better sense of whether the substitution will work. The best ways to get in touch with me are by messaging me on Ravelry or by sending an email to abeeinthebonnet (at) gmail (dot) com. Single-ply yarns are, to put it mildly, gloriously soft. Different fibers behave in different ways. The one on the left is woolen spun, and the one on the right is worsted spun. Another very important factor is the ply. But its so difficult to choose between the two Tom Hardys. Spun In Maine. Now I might be able to come closer to making the right choice for the right project. Then repeat the gauge swatching process. Most people whove knit the hat have substituted yarns, but if they didnt use one with a halo like the silk-mohair, they sometimes found that the resulting fabric was too loose. How a yarn looks also depends on (did you read my last article?) Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. Try yarnsub.com or ask LYS staff. The project aims to restore the hydropower installation to produce clean energy from the waterway that runs under the mill. Well-twisted yarn spun of long-staple wool which has been combed to lay the fibers parallel, used for carpets, cloth, hosiery, gloves, and the like. I have saved this post as I will go over it again and again. 5 sts / inch on size US 7. The yarn isn't smoothed, it's simply stretched out like a piece of chewing gum, that traps lots of air in the yarn, and makes it very bouncey and elastic. Dyed: United States. Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! Thanks for the clear and concise approach I get it now! In all the photos, the left swatch of the pair is the worsted spun yarn and the right swatch is woolen spun. That turning gives the yarn some stability. Worsted yarn is best used in outerwear, hats and mittens. One way is controlled; twist is brought to the fiber like a gift. May 2021 Your explanation is great, and reaffirms my decision to purchase your Yarnitecture book awhile back. The worsted yarn will be a little bit stronger whereas the woolen yarn will break a little bit easier. Lets use the Profiterole Hat for an example again. Have you ever pet a puppy in that super soft spot at the base of its ears? September 2015 That, in turn, means youll have more trouble knitting a garment that will fit you right. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, Free Resin Jewelry Video: Yupo Paper, Alcohol Inks, and Resin, Knitting-Themed Artists We Love: Inspiration from Fiber & Needles, Celebrating Beadwork Artists on International Womens Day. The problem is that theyre not as durable as multi-ply yarn. Annie. June 2013 This is the type of information that makes a knitter more knowledgable about our purchases. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. No need to go to the gym if you do an hours wool combing! It's then spun with the twist entering the drafting zone in a long draw technique. The twist brings air with it, and the surface isnt controlled by smoothing as it hits the fiber. In the videos below, I'm using hand carded alpaca. This is what is meant by the gorgeous phenomenon of blooming. They are also warmer because of the airiness. Closed Saturdays, Sundays and US Holidays, 2015- 2023 Lunatic Fringe Yarns - All Rights Reserved https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/. Theyve both got their benefits and drawbacks, which Ill cover next. But not always. Great article and most helpful. Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. February 2018 Worsted-spun yarns, on the other hand, are smoother and knit up into fabrics with greater drape and stitch definition. eCommerce Website by Virtually Everything, Country / Region*Select a country / regionAfghanistanland IslandsAlbaniaAlgeriaAmerican SamoaAndorraAngolaAnguillaAntarcticaAntigua and BarbudaArgentinaArmeniaArubaAustraliaAustriaAzerbaijanBahamasBahrainBangladeshBarbadosBelarusBelauBelgiumBelizeBeninBermudaBhutanBoliviaBonaire, Saint Eustatius and SabaBosnia and HerzegovinaBotswanaBouvet IslandBrazilBritish Indian Ocean TerritoryBruneiBulgariaBurkina FasoBurundiCambodiaCameroonCanadaCape VerdeCayman IslandsCentral African RepublicChadChileChinaChristmas IslandCocos (Keeling) IslandsColombiaComorosCongo (Brazzaville)Congo (Kinshasa)Cook IslandsCosta RicaCroatiaCubaCuraaoCyprusCzech RepublicDenmarkDjiboutiDominicaDominican RepublicEcuadorEgyptEl SalvadorEquatorial GuineaEritreaEstoniaEswatiniEthiopiaFalkland IslandsFaroe IslandsFijiFinlandFranceFrench GuianaFrench PolynesiaFrench Southern TerritoriesGabonGambiaGeorgiaGermanyGhanaGibraltarGreeceGreenlandGrenadaGuadeloupeGuamGuatemalaGuernseyGuineaGuinea-BissauGuyanaHaitiHeard Island and McDonald IslandsHondurasHong KongHungaryIcelandIndiaIndonesiaIranIraqIrelandIsle of ManIsraelItalyIvory CoastJamaicaJapanJerseyJordanKazakhstanKenyaKiribatiKuwaitKyrgyzstanLaosLatviaLebanonLesothoLiberiaLibyaLiechtensteinLithuaniaLuxembourgMacaoMadagascarMalawiMalaysiaMaldivesMaliMaltaMarshall IslandsMartiniqueMauritaniaMauritiusMayotteMexicoMicronesiaMoldovaMonacoMongoliaMontenegroMontserratMoroccoMozambiqueMyanmarNamibiaNauruNepalNetherlandsNew CaledoniaNew ZealandNicaraguaNigerNigeriaNiueNorfolk IslandNorth KoreaNorth MacedoniaNorthern Mariana IslandsNorwayOmanPakistanPalestinian TerritoryPanamaPapua New GuineaParaguayPeruPhilippinesPitcairnPolandPortugalPuerto RicoQatarReunionRomaniaRussiaRwandaSo Tom and PrncipeSaint BarthlemySaint HelenaSaint Kitts and NevisSaint LuciaSaint Martin (Dutch part)Saint Martin (French part)Saint Pierre and MiquelonSaint Vincent and the GrenadinesSamoaSan MarinoSaudi ArabiaSenegalSerbiaSeychellesSierra LeoneSingaporeSlovakiaSloveniaSolomon IslandsSomaliaSouth AfricaSouth Georgia/Sandwich IslandsSouth KoreaSouth SudanSpainSri LankaSudanSurinameSvalbard and Jan MayenSwedenSwitzerlandSyriaTaiwanTajikistanTanzaniaThailandTimor-LesteTogoTokelauTongaTrinidad and TobagoTunisiaTurkeyTurkmenistanTurks and Caicos IslandsTuvaluUgandaUkraineUnited Arab EmiratesUnited Kingdom (UK)United States (US)United States (US) Minor Outlying IslandsUruguayUzbekistanVanuatuVaticanVenezuelaVietnamVirgin Islands (British)Virgin Islands (US)Wallis and FutunaWestern SaharaYemenZambiaZimbabweUpdate country / region, State* If you can only achieve one, though, choose accurate stitch gauge. August 2017 February 2017 To aid you in making an informed choice when choosing between woolen-spun and worsted-spun yarns for your future projects, below is a general guide to the kinds of fabrics you can achieve with either kind. As a last resort, if the designer has published their contact information, consider reaching out to them if you have questions about yarn substitution. Bees Wrap your yarn firmly, but not tightly, around the item for at least a few inches, and then set it down next to the ruler. Yarns which Stretch Excellent article great swatch/photo examples too. They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. You can see the difference when its wound into a ball, and in the strand. That little strand of silk-mohair yarn is important, because the mohair fibers catch on each other and lend stability to the fabric. That's how I learned to do yarn substitutions, too, and it was a hard and frustrating process. Heres an example of what I mean: in February 2020, I released the Profiterole Hat. The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. I said Thank You as soon as I read the title. The packing-in of the fiber as worsted yarn is made allows the fibers to protect each other for longer wear and less pilling. The woolen yarn fabrics do not hold the crease well and are less durable than worsted yarns. (See my Jamieson & Smith Jumper Weight vs a worsted crepe swatch.) Is there a list? But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. www.solitudewool.com, Content: 100% wool Put-Up: 150 yd [137m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: Singles Recommended Gauge: 12 sts and 16 rows = 4 (10 cm) on size 11 (8 mm) needles, The bulky single-ply Native Twist is a 100% wool, soft-spun singles and is Imperials most popular yarn. Maurice Brassard Cotton Computer Color Numbers. The combing process removed all the shorter length hairs, leaving behind fibres of the same length, free from tangles. yarn weight is one of the key elements that affects the gauge, Shoes for Showing Off Handknit Socks: Six Suggestions. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Hours: Mon-Fri from 9am-4pm MT The Merino and Corriedale wool is gathered from Midwestern farms right here in the United States. Try to get your WPI to match as closely as possible to avoid that problem. A little history on worsted wool. The twisted singles are then plied together on the twisting frame Arbor is comprised of three plies, while Vale is comprised of two. This is a new day for me. Designers chose yarns, in part, based on the fiber content, knowing that fiber content will affect the appearance of the garment. Any amount of twist, be it a lot or a little, is essential for creating knittable yarn. Not every woolen-spun yarn has a rougher surface, and not every worsted yarn is smooth. Theyre lofty yarns, so they make lightweight, absorbent fabrics, Elsa Hallowell says, which feel cooler when its warm and very cozy when its cold. www.wool-clothing.com, Content: 100% pure virgin wool Put-Up: 170yd [155 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 24 sts = 4 (10cm) on sizes 35 (3.253.75mm) needles, Flywheel is a sportweight version of Harrisvilles well-loved Watershed. 2.83 yds Holland Sherry WOOL Fabric Luxury worsted Suiting 10 oz Plaid 102" BTP. 28 minutes. Because our yarns are washed in the hand-dying process some blooming has already occurred. Its not just the beautiful dyeing. When spinning the fiber the long draw or medium draw technique is used to allow the fiber to wrap upon itself while . The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. The best article ever on this subject. Thank you, thank you, thank you. Color is usually lighter in a woolen drafted yarn. Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. Thanks! It's much faster to spin wool because the fibres are not tidied up before you begin spinning. www.harrisville.com, Content: 100% pure wool Put-Up: 215 yd [196 m]/4 oz [113 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash with mild soap in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 17 sts = 4 (10cm) on size 8 (5 mm) needles, Our mill has been in production on the same location for 158 years, so we do have some history in producing woolen-spun yarn, says John Little of Briggs & Little Woolen Mills. July 2015 Woolen and worsted are two different classifications of wool fabrics and yarn. Great article! Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! The cookie is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Other. Both woolen and worsted spinning methods make beautiful yarns. Thank you Jagger Spun for the information! On the other hand, worsted yarn is spun by combing fibers. A worsted spun yarnwhere fibers are smoothed and air is squeezed out while it's twisted into yarnmakes a heavier yarn, since the crimp doesn't have much space to move around. Dogs Finally, more processed, worsted spun yarns don't aggravate my eczema . June 2015 Dye baths are created using a precise calibration of dye, temperature, and water flow to protect the lofty, softness of the wool and to ensure the colors are repeatable with every new dye lot. February 2014 September 2013 Woolen spun is traditionally spun from carded rolags (this was the job small children carried out). The Empire (on the right) is less consistent, and looks a little puffier. January 2020 December 2020 This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. I also find that woollen spun yarns need a lot of work to be held in place to create even floats, whereas worsted spun yarns naturally feed through my hands and create an even tension almost by themselves. There is a lot of technical information about the differences between woolen spun and worsted spun yarn, which you can read about here on the MDK blog. Todays topic is woolen and worsted drafted yarns. One other point about worsted vs. semi-worsted. The difference between Woolen Spun and Worsted Spun. Nature Spun Worsted is 100% US grown wool and it is spun and dyed in Mitchell, NE. Although there is broad agreement about the extremes of woolen and worsted spinning, no firm consensus exists on what precisely defines the vast middle. Hairs are aligned to be parallel, instead of being rolled up to perpendicular to the direction of the yarn. To help you do that, Ive written out this guide to things you should consider before choosing a new yarn for your project. Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. I needed to understand these concepts and to have them revealed in just this way. Just asking because s-on-s yarns produce a particular asymmetric shape when knitted. The worsted process means mixing all short hairs out of fabric. I think Ill need to read it over a few times to really get it, because there is so much information. Worsted wool fabric is typically used in the making of tailored garments such as suits, as opposed to woollen wool, which is used for knitted items such as sweaters. They are also warmer because of the airiness. This exciting variety can be attributed to similarly multiple factors such as individual spinning style and preference, fleece and fiber characteristics, or even environmental considerations like humidity levels. . The choice truly only depends on what you enjoy working with, what kind of fabric you want to achieve, how you plan on wearing the finished object, or all of the above. Its easier to just add more rows than to recalculate the width of a garment. Thank you!!!! Our Barrett Wool Co. Wisconsin Woolen Spun Yarns are about as close to homespun as we can get. Woolen yarns feel lighter, can feel textured and have a halo, and if the fibers like to be hairy or fuzzy, they will be flying their fuzzy freak flag. Understand that some designers are buried in messages. I have been looking for something to help determine how best to substitute yarn. Very good, educational description. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. See, what I didnt understand at the time was the fine art of yarn substitution. This was a grat posting. The fibers of a worsted-spun yarn are first straightened and then oriented in the same direction, making the yarn smooth and shiny, which gives your knitted fabric lots of stitch definition. As a result, generally they will pill more easily and develop holes sooner. In stockinette its *really* obvious. I'm glad it was helpful to you! During the Middle Ages, common agricultural practices were in flux because new breeds of sheep were being . Thank you. This approach makes for a lofty, lightweight yarn that traps warmth. It resulted in a hat that was light as a cloud but still structurally sound and very warm. February 2016 You then spin using a long draw technique that maintains that rolled structure. Many commercial yarns are spun with the worsted style. Woolen fabrics are spun from short fibers, while worsted wool is made from longer and fine ones. Best article Ive read on this subject, and Ive been looking for a clear one for about a year. Worsted Yarn. The indie Dyer might know how their base is spun if one is buying direct but maybe a LYS owner might not. This has just lit a light bulb in my head. When it comes to choosing between a woolen-spun yarn and a worsted-spun yarn, there really is no right or wrong answer. I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as grippier (as in grips more) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. Thank you for there explanation. Thanks. That pushes us in to the worsted end of the spectrum. It had a lacy yoke, short sleeves, and a bit of swing at the hem. FO's November 2020 The fibers are carded, or brushed, in a single direction and then tightly spun together, resulting in a yarn that is smooth and has a consistent thickness. I have noticed that in even acrylic yarns, worsted is not the same. Ah, you're right, thank you! However, roping is more commonly used to refer specifically to this stage inwoolen-spinning mills. June 2019 Look at the picture that accompanies this section. Twist is then inserted only as the fibers exit the draft zone, not concurrently as in our woolen-spun yarns. The cookie is set by GDPR cookie consent to record the user consent for the cookies in the category "Functional". April 2016 You have made it so clear to me. My thanks also. Woolen yarn consists of fibers of varying length that are carded so the fibers are not parallel. This can get a bit tricky if youre substituting because you have a fiber allergy. This was a great post. So, what ply is worsted weight yarn? It does not store any personal data. To really make sure you stand the best chance of getting the right gauge, you need to check your new yarns put up and/or WPI. You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. For many projects, it wont make much of a difference if youre switching yarn construction. September 2019 This blooming also has the effect of softening and blending the appearance of your stitches rather like moss growing on a forest floor, in the words of Clara Parkes. WPI is a way to measure the thickness of yarn. Semi-worsted at a similar wpi got me 83 yds/1.1 oz. April 2017 2.22 yds UK Sherry 100% Spun Silk Fabric Luxury Suiting 9 oz Apricot 80" BTP . September 2021 Great article! Your explanation of the 2 ends of the spectrum also makes it very easy to understand our process and resulting yarns. Chickens If you end up having to make a major substitution, remember that plant fibers tend to be heavier than animal fibers. Sometimes, those individual strings are then twisted together to form a stronger, denser yarn. Heres what woolen and worsted mean to your knitted sweaters and accessories. The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. I'm glad to hear you found it useful. You can see her producing rolags, and then using a navajo spindle to do a form of long draw. There are myriad ways to prepare and spin fleece and fiber into yarn. June 2021 Before you go subbing in your new yarn, though, think about the following issues. July 2016 God Bless. This wool should be spun using the long draft. October 2014 After picking, the fiber goes through acarder, a machine with several rolling cylinders covered in metal teeth. 4/9. Looking at a strand, I can start seeing variation. Color. The smoothness of the yarn means that the stitches knit from them sing proudly and have excellent definition, while the compactness of the yarn contributes to fabrics with greater drape. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. Taking the spinning seminar from Cecilia Quinn I learned the difference between worsted and woolen is in the way the fibers were treated and spun. Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. Woolen yarns are made of carded yarns and are fuzzy and bulky. Module 1 Review of the woollen and worsted production systems re-caps on the differences between worsted versus woollen yarn production, the early operations prior to spinning and their aims. March 2016 Your best bet is always to know how to make the substitution yourself. Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. ). If you divide the length of the yarn by the weight, you get a ratio. Thank for for such a coherent explanation (and the pretty swatches really help too)! Oh my gosh! May 2018 This is because the combed fibers, lacking air pockets, can more readily spin up into a compact, dense, and sturdy yarn. Any cookies that may not be particularly necessary for the website to function and is used specifically to collect user personal data via analytics, ads, other embedded contents are termed as non-necessary cookies. This is extra work youre asking them to undertake, and knitting patterns are already underpriced. If you cant, try searching the designs hashtag on Instagram. November 2015 Also receive daily new post notifications, Superfun Giveaway: Celebrate BIPOC Designers, https://www.ravelry.com/discuss/techniques/3930171/1-25, https://garmentmerchendising.com/category/fiber/, https://www.thenaturalfibre.co.uk/blog/woollen-and-worsted-spun-yarns-thoughts-wovember#:~:text=A%20woollen%20spun%20yarn%20will,high%20proportion%20of%20short%20fibre. November 2021 January 2016 Wonderful study! I knit swatches of all four yarns in stockinette, moss stitch, and a simple lace stitch, and took close-up comparison photos of the worsted and woolen yarns overlapping. Now that you know about how woolen and worsted yarns behave in knitted fabric, youll be able to choose the perfect pattern to complement your new yarn love. And you explained the difference between woolen vs worsted very well!! Eg: tweed. So far, all the colors have been created by dyeing the fiber in 16 vibrant solids, then blending them, two or . Worsted yarns are spun with all the fibers aligned, making a smooth and dense yarn with more sheen and drape. October 2018 It was a cotton-acrylic blend that was great for items that will get heavy use. Examples of Woolen Spun:Cascade Eco+ Merino DKCascade BFL, Examples of Worsted Spun (not a complete list):Malabrgio RiosCascade 220 Superwash. Great information! They also tend to have better stitch definition than single-ply yarns do. To begin the spinning process, apickeris used toloosely separate large masses of fiber into smaller onesand to mix the heathered shades of our woolen-spun yarns. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. Safe home and already knitting a scarf . Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. One method is not better or worse than the other just different. Gauge: 5.5 sts / inch on US 6. Natural fibers will be easier to block than acrylics (which can be killed with steam, but otherwise just are what they are). Oh thats right! This is the fun part about being a knitter who knows their yarn; its all up to you. The compression of a worsted draft puts more individual fibers into a length of yarn, making it heavier. Performance cookies are used to understand and analyze the key performance indexes of the website which helps in delivering a better user experience for the visitors.
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